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CONSIDERING
A TRIP TO LIBYA? (updated Oct. 2007)
I hope this journal encourages some people to go to Libya. If you're
prepared for the type of travel, and the occasional "surprise"
I've described in the journal
you will be repaid many times over.
If you
are considering a trip there, I can recommend a travel company and tour guide
(independent travel is difficult in Libya):
-
I highly recommend
BILGASEM SHLEBK to arrange
your trip. He was one of our guides during our eclipse week (At that time,
he worked for Safari Tourism ).
Before heading out to the Sahara for a week, there was a bit of uncertainty
about what it would entail, but when we all heard that Bilgasem was to be
our guide, we relaxed -- we had full confidence in him.
He did not let us down; despite any problems we may have encountered, Bilgasem was solid, calm and reliable. At our recent "Sahara reunion" in
Toronto, we all agreed that he was a big part of the success of our travel, someone we all
trusted -- and came to care about.
He has now started his own travel company,
Ain Mizrag Travel Agency.
Of course, when Oksana and I returned to Libya in March, 2007, with friends
we'd met the previous year, Bilgasem made all the arrangements, planned the
itinerary in consultation with us, and looked after us for the time we were
there.
I
am quite certain that almost anyone who traveled with us in the Sahara
would also recommend Bilgasem.
TRAVEL INFORMATION & NEWS
- The Aug. 27, 2006 New York Times
Travel section carried a
large article about Tripoli, written by Kevin Gray, the writer mentioned
on my eclipse page. (He's in
this photo, on the right interviewing David Makepeace). The hotel lobby
photo in the article is from our first Tripoli hotel, the Bab Al Bahar
- Xavier Jubier's
Libya pages,
contain information and great photographs of the eclipse and travel
through many of the same Sahara areas we visited.
- "World 66" -- an online travel site has
some good aerial maps that give an idea of the land we travelled through.
Their country map provides a good sense of the landscape of Libya. In the
south-west corner, the two huge sand seas, with the Acacus mountains in the
centre are very obvious.
You can click on any of the "66's" on the
map to go a map centred on a city or town. Going to Sebha, Germa or Ghat in
the south west will provide an even better picture of our Saharan territory.
You can click in, out, or drag any of the maps.
- A 2006 National Geographic Adventure
magazine article (& photos) "Rediscovering
Libya"
-
Lonely Planet: the standard English language guide book on Libya.
- We were amazed at how open some of Libya's
great archaeological sites were. The drawbacks of this openness -- and why they may not stay
that way (and why we always had security with us) -- is detailed in "Libya
fears for its stolen heritage" from BBC News.
- All this opening up, and influx of eclipse
tourists might mean: "Libya
is... the new New Zealand" (What??!!). "According to a new Berlitz
guide to the country, Colonel Gaddafi's home turf is a paradise for lovers
of all things outdoors.". From The Observer.
- BBC News: "Packing
your bags for Libya" (March, 2004).
- Yes, Libya is the new hot spot. The
tourism ministry announced this year that it expects tourism to increase
from fewer than 1 million tourists per year to 15 million by 2015! (This is
is likely as reliable as some other government announcements. However, while
many of use would be skeptical, it should be clear from this journal that I
highly recommend travel to
Libya).
- More about Libya's hopes to be a major
tourist destination in this
South African article.
"The fundamental problem that Libya has
today is getting things to work," Singh-Molares said. "That's where the
focus has to be in terms of modernising the economy."
"It has to be on administrative reform,
it has to be on education reform, monetary policy reform, banking system
reform - the kind of nuts-and-bolts fundamentals."
"It's so difficult to get visas to go
into the country: there's no point talking about reform if it takes 45
days to approve a tourist visa. That's got to change."
The article also points out something
peculiar to Libya's employment situation:
"It's
very rare to see a waitress come to clean the table and the toilets. Always
others - Egyptians - must do it."
LIFE IN LIBYA
A
Libyan discussion forum
A
discussion forum; with some controversial topics.
Most of the letters are in Arabic, but there is also English content
The blog of an American woman in Libya, with
links to many others'.
(NEW: Nov/06): "Keep Libya
Beautiful". So many of us who marvelled at the beauty of the country were
dismayed by the amount of garbage dumped in public, helping to mar places
like the Roman sites and the Sahara. A campaign called "Keep Libya
Beautiful" has posted a
video on You Tube.
(NEW: Nov. 22/06):
A fascinating
collection of historical photos, capturing images of Libya during the
Italian occupation and colonization. The majority cover the period from the
1930's, until the expulsion of the Italians shortly after Ghadaffi took
over.
Text is in Italian, but even if you don't
read Italian, you should be able to find your way. Explore the links at the
bottom of the page.
MISCELLANEOUS
For that perfect memory of Libya,
shop
here
Online Libyan music
Libya
Yellow Pages
Libya and the World Cup:
Gadhafi calls it "modern-day slavery", and denounces the football trade
in human beings from Africa to Europe, etc. His third son, Saadi used to be
the captain of the Libyan national team. He once became a member of a Serie A
Italian team in 2003, but was banned for three months after testing positive
for steroids. (One of the coaches of Libya's team was
Canada's
Ben Johnson -- a world pioneer in being banned for steroid usage).
The Colonel and his family: A website that clearly doesn't like any of
them. It's named "Beautiful
Atrocities".
A Libyan Rock Art website has a
great deal of information.
"The Libyan Desert": a website focused more
on eastern Libya, has several pages including ones on:
Flora & fauna
Rock Art
The Fezzan Project concentrates on
"understanding environmental change and past human occupation of the Fezzan
region". Its
website
has a number of pages about the area, including a good page of
links.
MOVIES:
The Lion in the Desert is the only
movie I've come across set in and filmed in Libya. It stars Anthony Quinn as
Omar Mukhtar, the leader of the Libyan resistance against the Italian
occupation from 1911 to 1931.
(A side note: the director was Syrian
Moustapha Akkad, whose only previous movie, The Messenger about the Prophet
Mohammed also starred Anthony Quinn. However, subsequently, he changed
themes, and was the Executive Producer for all the Halloween 'slasher" movies.
He and his daughter were killed in the hotel bombing of the Hyatt hotel in Amman, Jordan in November, 2005)
A Yank in Libya
(1942)
The artwork has to convince you to see this! (click for larger image).
The All Movie Guide says it is "distinguished by some of the oldest,
grainiest stock footage ever seen in a mid-1940's film. Otherwise, it "isn't
too bad". Set in a "papier-mache facsimile of Libya".
(NEW: Nov/06) I ordered the DVD, and
have watched it. It is "unique". The reason for the poor, grainy stock is
it's a movie that occasionally re-uses old footage from other unrelated
movies to save money. It just adds to the (perverse) enjoyment!
BOOKS ... a highly incomplete
list. (New, Aug. 29/06).
In the Country of Men, by
Kisham Matar
A novel set in Libya in 1979, focusing on
the nine year old son of a dissident. The quality of the book apparently
resulted in a
fierce bidding war in England for publishing rights. It's available in
the U.K., and will be published in North America in Feb. 2007.
The U.K. Observer printed a
review and
excerpt
Sahara, A Natural History, by Marq
de Villiers and Sheila Hirtle
A highly readable and fascinating account
of the greatest desert in the world: its history, geography, art, people --
and power. One reviewer called it "a glittering geographic tour conveying
the majesty, mystery, and abundance of life in what the outside world thinks
of as the Great Emptiness."
The same authors also wrote Sahara: The
Extraordinary History of he World's Largest Desert which I haven't read.
Both available in paperback.
A History of Modern Libya, by
Dirk Vandewalle.
A short, but excellent history of Libya since 1900.
Sahara Unveiled: A Journey Across the
Desert, by William Langewiesche.
I cited a section from this book
elsewhere in the journal.
Largely set in Algeria and West Africa, it follows the writer on his
travels, revealing much of the life of people of the desert and desert
towns, as well as communicating much of the beauty, harshness and power of
the Sahara.
Children of Allah, between the Sea and
Sahara by Agnes Newton Keith
I haven't read this yet (but will). It
was recommended to me by an American woman who was inspired by it to
visit Libya in November, 2005. (See her
travel report here), and her
comments about the book below:
The reason I went to Libya is, I
read a book by Agnes Newton Keith, called "Children of Allah,
between the Sea and Sahara". She lived there in the 1950's with her
British husband, who was an agricultural consultant for the U.N. helping
the Libyan government plant trees. It's a charming read, and she has
some of her own Saharan adventures. Anyway it inspired me to go!! She
jeeped all over the country, got to know the people, and describes the
Roman and Greek sites before they were excavated. It's a bit hard to
find, but worth it.
Other Libyan books:
Longtitude, a travel
book service has a
list of
books about Libya
(NEW: Nov/06) The U.S.
Library of
Congress bibliography on Libya (not up to date)
Looking for something a bit different?
Here are some
short stories written by Col. Ghadaffi himself.
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